Dragon Ballbulma Doujin

March 1908 February 1908: the "back" to Aneto

I took down as if a rebate is involved and could not be Riglos. So the desire of activity accumulated during the week that followed and eventually spilling over to the weekend.
Luck was on my side this time, 2 days of good weather, a day off gigs and a passionate partner. Said and done: "On Thursday we Benasque!"
leave yet we resist the idea that winter is still there and that despite the temptation to launch into devouring rock long sunny, we decided to look for in one of the Pyrenees the far reaches of the mountains: The slope Aneto Northeast.
Thursday at 23h after 6h of road alone Javi got to Benasque where I had been waiting a while.
The plan was as follows: On Friday quietly closer to Lake Barrancs to bivouac as high as possible and reduce the approximation on the day of climbing. On Saturday to climb the north gully Margalida, 250m ice and mixed in a spectacular setting. Back to sleep in the bivouac and on Sunday when the forecast indicated that time was wrinkled, get to Benasque and return to Babylon. Piada
find no date on the track, but decided to risk it and go up there and if luck was smiling and we found the way formed.
On Friday, a calm and made us forget that other hospital in the Benasque at about 11 am. There was no hurry, we had 3 or 4 hours before the approach and the day was splendid. Little given to minimalism
backpacks loaded with an assortment of equipment including climbing boots at the last minute because we decided to climb on skis, seeing that we could put the seals from the car.

Fund Track

The approach starts at the track cross-country skiing part of the Hospital, to be Friday had a lot of people with skis and cruise.
Most people went to the Renclusa and soon we were alone.

By Barrancs

The amount of snow was acceptable although some sections are "precarious."

Bald

The gap was not overcome excessive (1000m) but the backpacks soon left after 3 hours notice and we began to yearn to reach the bivouac.
During the approach we follow a trace of skis that took us to the head of Lake Barrancs where we finally spotted a place to pitch your tent.

Last down to about Barrancs

About

16h
we finally reached our bivouac. With a little work at the store packed to keep the wind and began the ritual of dinner and watching snow melt and the gully looked again to see if we saw color.

House Bivouac

The truth is that it was very dry compared to the photos we had seen, but we decided that the next day come close to the base and there would decide. We were in the room reviews of two other runners in this aspect as an alternative.
announced Saturday the anticyclone remained, with no wind or clouds, we loaded our backpacks and began climbing equipment approach. Near the Margalida
became clear that it was unable, at least for our humble level. Too much exposed rock in some sections the line of snow / ice disappeared which was not a good sign, decided to leave for another time and seek an alternative in the corridors adjacent to the gap in storms and back of Aneto.

North Margalida

The first seemed affordable, but the output at the peak of storms does not tempt us much. The "cold" underpinned and bad accidents this summer we took away the urge to go out there and finally opted for the second: 350m MD Dsup or inf as you see, good choice after all!

The road: Channel NE, Back Aneto, Dsup, 350m

By Barrancs

1st Length:
With good conditions can attack a cascade of ice about 70 ° that forms the base rock input into the corridor. This time there was absolutely nothing, so we surround ourselves climbing up the alluvial fan to a rocky ledge with loose rock III º. On top of the rebate and found a We meeting.

1st Entry Long

1st Leaving the Long

2 º Length:
is the key track and that gives the grade. This is a very vertical section with an output at 70 º for a narrowing.

Input 2 º Long

Narrowing

Depending on the quantity and quality of snow varies difficulty. In our case the snow was soon transformed and had accumulated in the narrowing, forming a plug that had to be removed to resolve the step, performed at the Joint aided by the left wall of the narrowing (IV approx.) And protected right.

The rest of the road corridor is a simple snow at 45 degrees to hit the final peak. We we roped in assembly to the top of Aneto, placing a ring of tape on the ridge.

end ramps

final Cresta

In Aneto

Descent:
Por el glaciar de nuevo hasta Barrancs al vivac. Donde descansamos esa noche para volver tranquilamente y sin prisas a la civilización a la mañana siguiente.

Al día siguiente anunciaban 60% de posibilidades de precipitación a nosotros nos toco el 40% de buen tiempo y pudimos disfrutar de un agradable descenso hasta el Hospital de Benasque. Alguna comprita en Barrabés. (Saludos desde aquí al compi del Placax que nada currando por allí!) Y vuelta a los madriles con un estupendo sabor de boca. Muy recomendable!