Friday, September 5, 2008

Full Head Highlights Each Time Half

Torozos: The old ED (6b +) SUMMER HOLIDAYS

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Sketch

Fall back, rock back and returns Torozos!
And what better way to start "back to school" with a classic Torozos: The Old Man ED (6b required).
Started by Juan Carlos y Manolo Cardero and Gabriel Martin, the route runs in 5 long south-east wall the Torozos.
cracks predominate and a good assortment of friends small / medium is desirable. although there are some fine steps of Plav with chickpeas to make us miss a good crack.
In fact, over the more difficult the first, a micro plate holds, equipped with parabolt.
For this pathway will require further string of 60m at least for two of the long with more than 50m
Description:

1st Length: V + / 6a at first, 6b + at the end (55m)

common with Moby-Dick in the first few meters, it is a journey first to crack and then protected parabolt plate, without being hard is air and we will get a tone from the beginning. Leaving the vertical field Moby-Dick is simplified giving rise to a dihedral lying (IV +) with a couple of nails.
After this relaxation, we find the hardest part of the track (mostly walk poque cold), it is a vertical plate of tiny grips cotada 6b +, in which the bond will be our greatest ally.

2 º Length: 6b and Ao

Pretty long, comprehensive, begins with a dihedral lying very aesthetic, password protected, then overcome a roof first free (6b) and then Ao (a) What puts us on a plate more grateful that the long 1st (6a +).

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Jesus overcoming the 2 nd Long desplomillo



3rd Largo: 6th
is the shortest of all, most of transition. Above a small gendarme edges slightly to the left, find a nail.

4 º Length: 6b Beautiful
over self-protection. Start in a diagonal crack with good holds but protects physical barrel (6a + / 6b). After the crack is narrow and must overcome a finer steps (6b) protected with a nail. When the field lies we find a cracked roof, where we protect ourselves to step very hard to block but not physical. After the roof
out again on crack and plate to the meeting.

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Guille on the board of the 4 th Long



5 º Length: 6b and V + at the end (50)
The last long too at the top of rope, we carries out a crack athletic but fair game, then come to a blunt plate strips encuantra bellies where the most difficult step (6b), protected by two sheets, from there, a crack-bayou us has no more problems to the meeting. Descent



4 rappels (60m double rope) for the southeast (Chochin Meetings and Cala) or climb (III) to the top and walk down the usual route (milestones)

encuantra The track in perfect condition, the anchors are new, the meetings are equipped with black oil and there is not much dirt in the cracks. Worthwhile.


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